The beast stopped abruptly in its tracks – it had spotted our rather feeble hiding place in the undergrowth. It eyed us suspiciously, snorted and then began to scrape the ground with its enormous hoof. I couldn’t help noticing how sharp the tips of its horns were as they glinted in the dappled sunlight. We were halfway up a hill in the middle of nowhere, cowering in the bushes on the side of a dirt-track just yards away from a huge, hairy and extremely disgruntled yak.
It had all started so well. My girlfriend Isabel and I had arrived at Zhuo Ma’s T1betan home stay in the beautiful Shang Si Zhai valley the day before. Nestled about 20 minutes drive from increasingly popular tourist destination Jiuzhaigou National Park in northern Sichuan, the valley boasts stunning views and some of the friendliest people you’re ever likely to meet.

(Jiuzhaigou National Park in winter, courtesy of Kieran Fitzgerald)
The morning had begun in peculiar but intriguing fashion when we were awoken by chanting monks, who were apparently blessing the newly re-opened home stay. A mobile phone suddenly cut through the rhythmical recital, and the chanting stopped while one of the monks chatted away for a few minutes. The call ended and the chanting resumed again.
After a breakfast of fresh flatbread and homemade honey, Zhuo Ma, the delightful owner of the home stay walked us up to the foot of the valley, and pointing a finger towards a set of prayer flags in the middle distance told us we should walk up to the circle of flags to get the best views of the surrounding area. Then, as it was our first day, it was probably best to head back and get some lunch, as the climb up to the top of the valley was quite tricky and she didn’t advise it for people who were new to the area.
It was shortly after passing the prayer flags (and the breathtaking views) that we made our first mistake. It was a lovely day, and as we’d made such good progress why not go on for a bit? Surely at the top of the heavily forested nearby peak the views would be even better? However, the path soon changed from a well-trodden thoroughfare to a muddy single-track trail and the trees and undergrowth seemed to condense and move a triffid-like two steps forward.
Out of the blue the sound of thundering hooves filled the air, and from around the corner two enormous yaks came barrelling down the hill. “Get off the track!” I shouted, and jumped up the bank. My girlfriend jumped down, twisting her ankle in the process, and once the yaks had past I hopped down to make sure everything was alright. It was at that point that the biggest, hairiest yak I’d ever seen came trotting leisurely along, coming to an abrupt halt right next to us.

It looked at us and we looked at it, and for a few seconds man, woman and beast stood stock-still, contemplating each other. It ran through my mind to take a picture – after all it’s not every day you’re just metres away from half a tonne of hairy livestock, but then knowing my luck the flash would have gone off and all hell would have broken loose, so I decided against it. After what seemed like a lifetime, the yak suddenly tossed its head into the air, snorted and then trotted disdainfully off down the hill.
A lucky escape and one that we’ll have hopefully learn a few lessons from. Firstly that nature, however beautiful, should be admired but also treated with respect. Secondly, listening to local guides is a good idea – they tend to know a little bit more about their area than you do! Despite the unfortunate incident with the yak in the daytime we had a wonderful time pottering round the valley and surrounding parks, and would thoroughly recommend both the area and the home stay to anyone with a little sense of adventure!
